Out of the Way Elegance

L’ANIMA CAFÉ

By Kate Dannies

The perfect counter to the soulless financial buildings that characterize the district of Bishopsgate, L’Anima literally means “the soul” or “the spirit” in Italian. Formerly of St. Alban on Lower Regent and Dorchester in Park Lane, chef Francesco Mazzezi recently opened his solo venture with a desire to cook the cuisine of his childhood. Originally from the southern Italian region of Calabria, Mazzezi took inspiration from his travels throughout Puglia, Sicily, Sardinia and even North Africa to create an inspired and cohesive menu of Italian-influenced delights.

Designed by architect Claudio Silvestren, the stunning interior features immense glass frontage, earthy textured brown walls with white marble accents and magnificent white limestone flooring. Long dangling wand lights are reminiscent of hanging candles and sumptuous white leather furniture is featured throughout the bar and dining area. The color scheme is both striking and symbolic: brown and white, earth and clouds, body and soul.

The short but rich menu consists of simple dishes executed with precision, highlighting the quality of ingredients and clarity of flavors. The space also features a walk-in wine cellar for tastings, with an Italian-dominated wine list. Selections are well thought out and feature unusual bargains such as a crisp white 2007 Colli de Verti from Abruzzo. Service is friendly, efficient and extremely knowledgeable about the wine menu and familiarity with menu ingredients.

Starters are simple and feature dishes such as hand carved San Daniele ham, a deceivingly light and flavorful Fritto Misto and seared octopus. Pasta selections are equally as satisfying and include delightful combinations such as spaghetti with fresh lobster and anise seeds along with a wild boar maltagliati with juniper and pistachio. Main dishes feature a variety of meat and fish options prepared to perfection such as Sicilian rabbit complimented by a burst of agrodolce- sweet and sour- sauce. The seafood is shockingly fresh and features unique combinations such as marinated cod with licorice and chili. Deserts offer similarly unexpected yet delightful combinations such as a spiced berry soufflé and a frothy sayoban with praline shards.

When we’re in London and looking for a relaxing yet invigorating experience featuring bold, fresh flavors away from the hustle and bustle of the busy London restaurant scene, L’Anima Café is our destination.