Sarah Guirguis The fashion clock has struck midnight and apparently it’s time to bring back ball gowns! Living his ultimate haute couture dream, Kim Jones’ fall collection for Fendi this year was modeled by top supermodels, including Kate Moss, Christy Turlington and Amber Valletta. In the film shot by Luca Guadagnino, they float about a Roman theater set in visionary dresses, symbolizing statues of the Eternal City.
It is no secret that the direction Jones set for Fendi this season capitalizes on the traditional boldness of haute couture. Shamelessly head-turning, the collection features vivid ballroom silhouettes, intricate embellishments and notable faces. On his vision to revive evening wear, Jones said to Vogue, “It’s being optimistic about being able to socialize properly. I thought it was a nice moment to say that. [Couture clients] go to Fendi for something extravagant.”
The level of glam in this collection can be weighed by three main aspects – the recycled fur fabric, the explosion of embroidery and the decoration applied to every piece like there’s no tomorrow. It almost seems as if Jones had been waiting to unleash all this energy for a long time.
Drawing inspiration from the neo-realism Pasolini is famous for, the film portrays the various iconic architectural eras of Rome. Even the textures, lines and fabrics within the collection were inspired by real statues, structures and streetlife in the city.
On the creative process behind this fall collection, Jones said to Vogue, “We had a lot more time to work on this one. We’ve actually had a full season. So, it’s a lot more worked into, and I think people will see a lot of difference in it. The people here, when they see what we’ve been doing, they can’t believe it’s the second one I’ve done. They say it’s a lifetime’s worth of understanding.”
We can most certainly see why! There are intricate details everywhere, whether you notice the marble effect on Valletta’s overlaid dress or the head-to-toe petal adornment on Moss’s oversized dress. However, what really caught our eye was the look modeled by Malika Louback, which featured a stunning white coat with a feathery aura. Matched with gorgeous high-knee boots, we have to say this look is the perfect blend of extravagant chic and creative flair.
According to Vogue, Jones’ work really shines through when his cutting and shape design techniques can be spotted from a distance. And we have to agree completely. Commenting on future plans, he told Vogue, “I’ve only really scratched the surface but we’ve already planned what we’re doing for the next couture.”
