Amy Pugsley If you take an afternoon stroll down the streets of Paris, Milan, New York, Cairo or Dubai, you are likely to spot one of Gemy Maalouf’s designs. Whimsical fabric, striking colors and femininity are all trademarks of the Lebanese designer’s brand. Maalouf’s journey into fashion started at a young age; her father owned a fabric factory, and so stepping into the colorful world of design was second nature to her. By 1996, Maalouf opened her first atelier in Beirut, becoming the first designer to launch the ‘Couture a Porter’ concept in Lebanon. A true pioneer in her field, her unique approach to high-end fashion made the brand an instant favorite for modern trendsetters.
Today, her goal is to create design collections that tell a story and the story her clothing tells is one that whispers magic. The charm that comes embedded in each of Gemy Maalouf’s designs is second to none. For this season’s Pre-Fall 2020 collection, she channeled her inner Diana Ross to give homage to the icons of the 1970s. It features ready-to-wear pieces and selected couture pieces that are fun yet classic. The Fall/Winter 2020 collection piggybacks off the Fall season with more incredible seventies vibes, giving every fashionista a chance to be Cher for a day. Amidst a global pandemic, the talented Gemy Maalouf took the time to speak with us about fashion design and creative inspiration.
Are you more intuitive or more analytical when it comes to design?
In the creative process, intuition is key. It is as important as the artistic identity. While designing, intuition drives my gestures. When all of my senses are deployed, I know I am on the right track.
First, I give free rein to my creativity, and at this stage, logic is put aside. By the time all the sketches are ready and gathered, I start using my analytical skills to eliminate what doesn’t seem to correspond with my persona or the target markets.
As a designer, does your creativity come from happiness or darkness?
We all go through difficult times but I do not consider that these times favorable to creation.
I see myself as a positive person; beauty and optimism stimulate my inventiveness. I am in a perpetual search for light, and I am aware that it is a question of perception. Therefore, it’s very important to adopt a positive vision in order to see beauty everywhere.
Who is your muse?
To have a muse means to dress women to resemble a woman’s ideal. I don’t have a muse but I have many sources of inspiration among which is the Gemy Maalouf woman or persona that I keep in mind. She’s a modern and confident woman who seeks to be unique. She’s free-spirited and when it comes to fashion she seems to be very selective and is definitely not a brand victim.
What city in the world inspires you the most?
Rome is my all-time favorite city. It is a cradle of history, art and culture. During each visit, I am overwhelmed by its timeless beauty and the mix of ancient architecture and modernity. I have the impression that it is stuck between two epochs. Just strolling its streets opens the way to a new perspective.
Talk us through your design process in creating your pieces.
I draw my inspiration from the magic of colors and the harmony of textiles after visiting renowned exhibitions where I select the fabrics of the upcoming collection; all while working simultaneously on mood boards that serve as inspirations to set the direction and spirit of the collection. We then move to the brainstorming and sketching phase. Next, those sketches are transformed into garments. Handcrafted delicate details are then added to complete the pieces.
Finish the sentence!
I can’t start my work without… “a cup of coffee.”
My favorite designer is… “Alexander McQueen.”
When I’m looking to get inspired, “I go to Rome.”
