Flair Magazine Jewellery designer Jude Benhalim begun her design journey at a very young age, and what started as an assignment in creativity turned into a career of passion. Meet the jewellery designer characterized with confidence and individuality as she tells tales through her striking structural jewellery. With big dreams for her namesake label, she is name to be kept on your fashion radar.
How did you get into jewellery design?
I started at the age of 17 when I was in high school. It actually started as a school project for part of my IB diploma where I had to submit a project related to creativity. So I went to Khan Al-Khalili (a major souk in the Islamic district of Cairo) to buy beads and so. Then I made a very small collection that I sold for charity. Everyone was very encouraging especially that I was very young and I was selling my pieces. That gave me a push and I found myself very enjoying it. Then my mom (Rana Al Azm) suggested I turn the hobby into a business. She’s actually my business partner and that’s how it started. As time passed, I had to juggle both my work and studies together. It wasn’t easy but luckily I was studying film at AUC (the American University in Cairo) as I really wanted to become a film director, hoping that my jewellery business would remain as a side hobby or a side business. Through all years of college, I was growing my business slowly but then after graduation I looked for a job in the film field and I went to locations with film directors but I didn’t really see myself doing that. Neither my personality nor that way I am fits this industry, especially in Egypt. I didn’t feel comfortable. But I was happy that I gave myself the chance to at least know that this wasn’t for me because when growing it up it was a passion of mine but once I gave it a try, it didn’t seem to fit who I am. The I realized that I’ve been giving so much time and effort to my jewellery business and I’ve been enjoying it very much. I love designing and I grew up in a house inspired by design. My dad is an architect so you can see my work is very inspired by architecture, and geometry. My mom also works in the fashion industry so I grew up in a home where I was always inspired by design.
Why did you go re-brand your company from “J designs” to Jude Benhalim?
That was a decision that I made right after I graduated when I decided that this is my path and career and this is what I want to do. I started really focusing on re-branding and doing this whole makeover to the brand, make it a little more high-end, give it a little richer field. Especially because I was starting to hope that I want to grow to different markets and on a global level. That’s why I had to do that so the name would be catchier and more unique because I did my research and found a lot of J designs around the world. I think my name is kind of unique because I’m half Libyan half Syrian so my name is a Libyan name. But it was kind of a risky decision because everyone was already familiar with J Designs but I just went with it and I took the risk and it hasn’t proven to be a bad decision so far on the contrary everyone said it was a great move that it gave it this richer field.
Your latest collection “Urban Rebel” draws inspiration from the urban life, what drew you to this?
My collections in general follow the journey of a woman that I made up, like a female spirit, and each collection is a stop in her journey where she pushes her limit, and where she learns a lot about herself. In every stop she learns more about herself because she has an inner struggle and this inner struggle is being solved and it’s usually something that I can personally relate to and I feel that any girl in our society especially can relate to. As a persona she is a very curious spirit so she wants to find out more about herself. We first introduced her with my first collection ‘SHE’ as this curious dynamic person, and then her next stop was ‘HER COSMOS’ where she was in the Cosmos in the middle of space where she learns to be alone because we live in a society that tells us you cannot be single or sit or eat and go to the movies alone. It was a point in her journey where she learned to embrace her solitude. With the urban collection the theme is the city life and it is basically about the limitations of the urban life and how in the city you tend to be forced into a role that you don’t necessarily see yourself in; whether, it’s a housewife, or a workaholic. Its a fast paced life that sometimes it doesn’t allow you to really get in touch with your individuality. So it’s about breaking your way from that like moving away from the urban life and its limitations basically; that’s the theme behind the collection. Artistically, the collection is inspired by urban structures, anything urban; the cracked cement, concrete buildings, skyscrapers, intersecting streets, bricks, so when you look at the pieces this is basically the inspiration but the way I translated into my designs I tried to be as abstract as possible as to not just recreate a city, but its elements.
What is your favourite piece from your current collection?
My favourite pieces are the cracked concrete piece, which includes a choker, cuff, and earrings. They are my favourite because it perfectly symbolizes this idea of breaking something. You are literally breaking from the reality. And the cracks perfectly explain the story of the collection.
What is the best/most enjoyable thing about being a jewellery designer?
My favourite part is seeing my sketches and the final product I imagined in my head come to life. I think that’s the most rewarding part.
Tell us more about your process in creating a collection.
My starting point and initial inspiration is always a space that is the stop where she (the imaginative woman) goes next. I do a lot of research and if it’s a state where I can go to like a city. I will travel and explore its textures, construction, and anything related to that space. So I try to study as much as possible. I also research what’s trending in fashion. Then I start to sketch and when I’m done I take it to the workshop so we can start checking out the several samples for each piece until we reach to the perfect one.
How do you know when the piece is done? How do you edit the collection in general?
When it is the closest to what I had in mind, because it never comes out exactly the way I sketched it. There are always limitations from the workshop because some things aren’t easily done so we start to edit the piece but in general I know I reached the perfect sample when it’s the closest I had in mind.
Who do you envision wearing your work? Do you think about this when you work on designs?
I can’t think of a specific person but I would say the woman that wears my jewellery is different. She’s out of the box and a bit fierce, edgy, bold and courageous. Because my jewellery is a bit chunky and I don’t have a classic “safe” pieces. She also needs to relate to the calligraphy that’s on the jewellery because it’s very empowering. I always try to remind her of her self-confidence and to always know her worth and value. One time I had a customer ask ‘what does this ring say’ so I told her and she replied ‘this is too arrogant for me’. So if the calligraphy doesn’t speak to you than you’re not the person that should wear it.
How would you describe the style of your collections?
It’s edgy, architectural, very geometric, and abstract.
When I’m looking to get inspired I…
I explore spaces that are out of my comfort zone.
What do you do in your spare time?
I watch movies because I don’t want to completely let go of my love for movies because I always want to practice. I also workout.
What are your plans for the coming future?
I want to expand my brand worldwide so it could be a global name and penetrate different markets across the world. I want to compete on an international market.
What are your plans for your upcoming collection?
I’m working now on the summer collection and it should launch sometime in April. It’s a small one but different. It’s going to be colourful and very summery.
Written by: Sarah Hassan
